Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tutorial. Show all posts

Friday, June 10, 2011

Blood Hammers: Colors

Below is a breakdown of the colors I use to paint my Blood Hammers. All paints used are GW except where noted. I usually prime with Krylon black primer (about $3.99 at a dept or hardware store. In the case of these guys, I primed with black primer and then sprayed them with a can of GW dark angels green I had laying around (not sure this is made anymore). 

Blue armor: Base coat-Dark angels green followed by Scaly green, then hawk tourquoise with highlight of ice blue
Red Armor: Base coat-Dark angels green, followed by red gore, blood red, highlight of blazing orange.
Stone base: Base coat of macharius solar orange, wash with ogryn flesh followed by bubonic brown, highlight with skull white. 

Purity seals & white armor/wings: Base coat denab stone, wash with grephonne sepia followed by bleached bone with highlight of skull white. 
Gold: Base of Valejo brass, wash with devlan mud, followed by valejo gold, highlight with chainmail.
Metal: Base of boltgun metal, wash with badab black, followed by chainmail, highlight of mithryl silver. 


Black, I simply highlight with adeptus battlegrey
Brown leather: Base coat with Calthan brown, wash with devlun mud, followed by snakebite leather, highlight with tausept ochre
Dirt: Charodin granite, followed by codex grey, highlight fortress grey.
For purity seal writing i use a 0.1 staedtler pigment liner pen (bought at michaels crafts)

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Magnetized Hunter killer missiles & Las TL Plasma conversion

I made some quick easy brackets to magnetize my Hunter killer missiles. This makes them easy to keep track of once used. Just pull them off. I scratch made the bracket because the supplied bracket doesn't have a whole lot of room for a magnet, and I usually use them for the other options.

Bracket is made of 1/8" thick plastic card (same thickness as the magnets)
I mark off a square a little larger then the magnet for the base and a rectangle for the stand that the HKM will be glued too.

Drill a hole in the base, the same size as the magnets

Cut out the pieces

Glue the stand to the base with plastic glue, so they are perpendicular 

glue the HKM's to the assembled bracket

drill a hole in your tank where ever you want to put them, put a magnet in the tank and in the bottom of the bracket with super glue. 

Here's a couple Rhino's and a Razor back with a Twin link Plasma gun.

For the twin link Plasma gun I used Plasma guns that came with the space wolves sprues. I cut off the grips, drilled small holes to match the mount, then put a small piece of plastic card between the two to make them match up. 

Saturday, December 5, 2009

How to paint Wolves


Below is my method for painting Fenrisian wolves. For lack of a proper (and affordable) Fenrisian wolf model, I decided to go with the chaos warhounds. I did not glue in the antlers and green-stuffed over the holes. Though these may not be the most optimum models to use, I think the method below could be used for any wolf model. I'll be using this color scheme on my Thunder wolves as well.

I used the pic below as referance.


Paint the under belly/arms/head with Denab Stone.
Paint the rest of the fur Scorched Brown



Wash the Denab Stone with Gryphone sepia.




Drybrush the Scorched Brown with Snakebite leather.



Drybrush the light areas with bleached bone. lightly overbrushing onto the dark fur. paint the teeth bleached one, paint the gums, tongue pink.

This next picture isn't that good (overcast outside), carefully paint the lips & nose black. Paint around the eyes  and over the top crest of the fur black. paint the hoves black.



Finally lightly highlight the black with adeptus battlegrey. I painted the eyes yellow with a dark angels green pupil.






Sunday, September 20, 2009

Dipping Orks / Quick table top quality Horde force


So for my Orks, I'm not going to spend 8 hours apiece on the troops. Especialy when the units are 20-30 strong. I want to get them painted quickly, but have them look nice on the table top. I've been using some products form Army Painter, that I think really turn out well, and save a TON of time. In just a few steps you will have a completed unit. So on to it.....

I do this "assemply line" style, painting  a whole unit at a time.

Once assembled I glue citidel modeling sand on the base, then spray the models with Army painter Greenskin Primer. The beauty of the colored primer, is killing the primer and skin base color with one stone. (giant time saver).


  • A thing to note: I'm note going to be doing a lot of highlights with these models, so for the most part use bright colors so once the army painter dip is applied they will not be too dark. 
  • Before I get to the rest of the base colors I run a very quick drybrush of goblin green to all of the skin areas.




  • For all of the base colors, I thin the paints down quite a bit so the paint goes on thin and quickly!
  • First thing I base coat is the base. I use adeptus battlegray for a blasted wasteland look in the final product. 
  • Ultramaines blue for the pants. Skull white for the shirt (My color scheme is blue jeans and wife beater), Boltgun Metal for all the metal parts, Chaos Black for all the straps/boots/leather (matches the Warbikers black leather jackets)
  • Finally hit the teeth and claws with Bleached Bone, and stiching with tausept ochre.
  • If these were regular troops, the basecoat would be done, but since for this example I'm painting my converted tank busta's, I hit the fins of the rokkits with mecharite red. 


That didn't take long at all. The unit is now ready for the Army painter quick shade medium dip.




  • Be sure to follow the directions on Army painters web site, You need to really shake the excess off otherwhise excess will pool on elbows, bottoms of gun/ axe handles etc. 
  • Now you wait! once dipped they need to dry about 24 hours or more
  • While I'm waiting for one unit to dry I'll start basecoating another unit. or work on another project all together. 
Once dry you just need to hit the eyes with Blood red if desired, and paint the bottom of the base with Graveyard earth. Add burnt grass to the base and spray with matt spray.

For the Nob, I'll add a few small details to make him stand out. Some checkerboard, smiley on the rokkit.


Ork Tank Busta Unit complete!

Below are a few more examples using this exact same tecnique.

These guys are from my Chaos Space Marine legion, "The Eye's of Doom!". The only thing I added after diping was scorpion green highlight to the tubes, freehand eyeball and power sword highlights.